But there are compensations in the funky Caribbean decor inside, the delicious food and an interesting cocktail list. I chose a mixed fish grill (£12.50). The plate was piled high with red snapper (jerked), jack fish, parrot fish (which had a green and rather parrot-like tail!) and luscious bits of pink octopus. There was also sweet, fried plantain and a bowl of rice and beans with a spicy sauce. I washed the spiciness down with beer, while some of my companions sampled the cocktails (around £6). However, the Caribbean vibe extends right down to the service - great if you want to linger, not so good if you are trying to eat dinner in a a bit over an hour. Sunday nights feature soul music, so I'd like to return for a leisurely end to the weekend sometime.
Cottons, 70 Exmouth Market, Clerkenwell, EC1R 4QP; Tel. 020 78333332; Tube: Farringdon or Angel; www.cottons-restaurant.co.uk
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