The menu is European with a hint of Italy in dishes like risotto and pizza. On our most recent visit, we sampled salmon on pumpkin bliny, juicy scallops with king prawns and a bowl of creamy Jerusalem artichoke soup. All seemed to strike the right note between delicious gastronomy and that familiar comfort factor you want on a cold Sunday night in the middle of winter. For mains, there was steak with melt-in-the-mouth cheesy potato gratin for two of us, and rare tuna on roast vegetables for the third. I have to admit that this place is a favourtite of mine, especially in the summer when they put tables outside on to the quiet square behind the restaurant. They also run events, from comedy nights to evenings with chefs -- and one of these days we shall get organised and attend.
The Zetter Hotel, 86-88 Clerkenwell Road, EC1M 5RJ; Tel. 0207 580 2663; Tube: Farringdon; www.thezetter.com
PS The photo is of sea bream with chorizo and beans, from another visit.