Levantine

The window, draped in metallic strands of a fringe-style curtain, stands out on an unlovely road within spitting distance of Paddington station. Inside, cushions and shisha pipes transport you into middle East. There are good value set menu options at lunchtime and an a la carte after 5pm. We plumped for a selection of mezze: hummus (£4.50), tabbuleh (£4.25), lamb and pine nut pastries (£4.25) and lamby, lemony Lebanese sausages called maqaneq (£4.75), all mopped up with a selection of breads from the £1.25 a head cover charge. It was nice enough grazing, but did not really stand out from other similar meals in other (and often cheaper) venues across London. The experience was not improved by a waitress who for some reason refused to answer the constantly ringing telephone. So definitely not a destination restaurant, but a decent enough pit stop if you happen to be in the area.

Levantine, 26 London St, W2 1HH; Tel 0207 262 1111; Tube: Paddington; www.levant.co.uk